Dear Mr. Electrician: How does a 4 gang electrical meter socket box get replaced?
Answer: Replacing a 4 gang electrical meter socket is a multi-step process involving homeowners, property managers, the local power utility company, and the town building department. NOTE: Some text links below go to applicable products on Amazon and EBay.
In the photo above, the bottom of the main cover has holes from rust.
LABOR TO REPLACE A 4 GANG ELECTRICAL METER SOCKET
I installed a Siemens 5 gang electrical meter socket to replace the rusted four gang, single phase, electric meter socket on a residential condominium building. The electrical service was 120/240 volts, with a four hundred amp underground feeder. The new 4 gang electrical meter sockets are a vertical stack and would not line up with the existing feed cables so I used a five gang electrical meter socket instead.
For the entire job I figured about 40 man hours of labor which included driving two new ground rods with a new grounding electrode conductor and intersystem bonding termination, permit application, electrical inspection, call for a property markdown, arrangements with the power company to have meter locks removed ahead of time and to disconnect power when needed, pre-cutting and painting of the new meter base back board, advance notification to all of the dwelling unit occupants about the power outage due to work being done, labeling of existing tenant load wires, removal and disposal of the old multi-gang meter socket, and installation of the new 5-gang electrical meter socket.
When I submit my permit application I include a short one page typed “Scope of Work” statement briefly explaining what work will be done. This gives the electrical inspector a better idea before hand of what is going on. If something is not right it is better to find out before work commences.
The actual time spent just removing the old 4 gang electrical meter socket and installing the new Siemens 5 gang meter socket base was approximately 3 hours using three experienced electricians.
The above circuits were live and in use at the time of this photograph.
The tenant load wires which provided power to the condos were in good working condition.
The original installer used a 2″ squeeze connector installed backwards without a clamp to protect the wires from the sharp metal edge of the knockout. In the new installation I used 1 1/4″ chase nipples with locknuts and plastic bushings for each tenant load cable. The 1 1/4″ holes were made using a knockout punch as the factory installed concentric knockouts did not align with the existing wires.
The culprit that causes the rust and the aging meter socket to pull away from the building is water. I have found on a few of these meter bases that the top hub cover was not installed properly and was not caulked. This allowed water to leak in. Some other meter bases were only mounted to the side of the building using drywall screws which rusted from moisture in the air. Other times water was getting behind the meter socket and caused the back side to rust as well as the wood underlayment to rot.
This particular 4 gang electrical meter socket was originally installed using drywall screws. Drywall screws should never be used for anything other than drywall. The screws rusted and as the wood siding became soft from water the screws pulled out. This led to water getting onto the back of the meter base. There does not appear to be any evidence of caulking along the top from the original installation.
You can see the remains of caulk that had been applied many years ago. If new mounting screws were installed a few years before and new caulk applied to the top, this meter socket base would not have to be replaced.
With the wood underlayment rotten from water it was necessary to install a new backboard that was screwed directly onto the wood studs. On one or two occasions I found that part of a wood stud was rotted away as well. In those instances I had to install a 2″ x 4″ against the side of the existing wall stud and screw it in place high and low where there still was good wood.
In the picture above from the black mold stain you can see how water settled at the lower section of the wood underlayment. Notice at the top just to the right of center you can see the old grounding electrode conductor through the hole in the underlayment. This grounding electrode conductor was used to bond the interior metal water piping. The water service pipe to the building was non-metallic. The single ground rod was the only earth ground.
You can see on the left the electrical permit inside of a plastic bag taped to the side of the building.