Dear Mr. Electrician:  How do I extend the kitchen electrical outlets from the wall a little so I can add ceramic tile?

Answer:  The use of electrical box outlet extenders or receptacle extenders is a simple and approved method to extend kitchen electrical outlets when the wall depth changes.

NOTE: Some text links below go to applicable products on eBay and Amazon.  As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

To use outlet box extenders, the existing electrical outlet box must be in good condition, and the screw holes must be able to hold 6/32 machine screws tightly.  Otherwise, the existing electrical box should be replaced.

Electrical receptacles or box extenders are required when adding depth to a wall as per article 314.20 in the National Electrical Code (NFPA 70).  Electrical boxes must be flush with the finished surface to prevent any sparks from getting onto combustible wall materials and also, to support the wiring device.

Below are photos from a kitchen remodel that I worked on where some of the existing electrical boxes remained in place, while others had to be relocated.  Adjustable depth electrical boxes and ReceptXtenders were both used on this job.

This is the finished kitchen after new cabinets, countertop, tile backsplash, and appliances are installed
This is the finished kitchen after new cabinets, countertop, tile backsplash, and appliances are installed

HOW TO EXTEND KITCHEN ELECTRICAL OUTLETS

Often I find that the old original plastic electrical box is in need of replacing, in which case I use adjustable depth boxes so I can adjust the electrical box to be at the perfect depth when the wall is finished.

Below you can see the process that I went through to accommodate the new kitchen cabinet arrangement and tile backsplash with new and existing electrical outlets.

Most of the existing outlets had no need to be relocated, the electrical boxes just needed extending.   A new wall oven was going to be installed, so I moved the outlet from that location.

I had to make some changes to the ceiling light switch that someone had moved in a previous renovation.  There was already a switch and light above the sink that I was able to use some of the existing wiring from for the new low voltage sink lights.

The wallboard has an opening approximately 12 inches wide at counter top height, going around the room. This is to facilitate the installation of electrical wiring for the new undercabinet lighting
The wallboard has an opening approximately 12 inches wide at counter top height, going around the room. This is to facilitate the installation of electrical wiring for the new undercabinet lighting

The first thing that I did was draw a couple of level lines at back splash height and cut out the drywall where I needed to work.  The job called for installing new undercabinet lighting in addition to extending and relocating outlets.  You can see part of the undercabinet lighting installation on my post here.

Close shot of a metal adjustable outlet box, mounted on a wood wall stud, with 12/2 Romex type NM-B electrical wiring entering from the bottom
Close shot of a metal adjustable outlet box, mounted on a wood wall stud, with 12/2 Romex type NM-B electrical wiring entering from the bottom

I like to use adjustable depth electrical boxes for kitchen and bathroom outlets and switches.  That way I am prepared for any thickness of finished wall or back splash.

After I install the adjustable depth boxes during the rough-in wiring phase of construction, I adjust them so that they are sticking out further than they need to be.  That ensures that whoever installs the wall coverings will fully cut around the electrical box.

If I kept the box recessed, I would wind up cutting the hole bigger to accommodate the wiring device.  I have no problem cutting drywall, but tile and stone are more difficult to work with.

CLICK HERE to See Adjustable Electrical Boxes Sold on Amazon

A one gang adjustable electrical outlet box protruding from the unfinished drywall
A one gang adjustable electrical outlet box protruding from the unfinished drywall

As depicted above, I prefer to leave the boxes protruding from the wall a little so whoever finishes the wall will cut around it instead of partially covering it.  When I install the wiring device I will also adjust the box back to its correct depth.

Existing kitchen outlet box with a one-gang, 3/4" ReceptXtender electrical box extender to push the outlet to the new wall depth
Existing kitchen outlet box with a one-gang, 3/4″ ReceptXtender electrical box extender to push the outlet to the new wall depth.

I like to use the deeper ReceptXtenders for the rough-in phase on existing outlet boxes.  That way whoever installs the back splash will have to cut around my box.  After the back splash is finished I change the extenders to the proper depth.

Too often it had happened where I was called in after the back splash was installed and had to make the holes in the wall bigger to fit the new GFCI receptacles.  I bought a RotoZip tool and diamond bits so that I could trim the tile and stone on kitchen counter back splashes without causing damage.

GFCI outlet mounted to the ceramic tile back splash using a one-gang, 1/2" ReceptXtender receptacle box extender for support.
GFCI outlet mounted to the ceramic tile back splash using a one-gang, 1/2″ ReceptXtender receptacle box extender for support.

The ReceptXtenders do a good job of supporting the electrical outlet or switch so that the devices are even with the finished wall.  After the wall is finished you could also use box extenders instead to fill in the gap and support the wiring device.

Two existing counter top outlets with one-gang, 3/4" ReceptXtender receptacle box extenders on them
Two existing counter top outlets with one-gang, 3/4″ ReceptXtender receptacle box extenders on them.

I added the two 3/4″ ReceptXtenders to the above switch and outlet during the rough-in phase so that any installer that mounts something over them will have to cut around the extenders, making my job easier when I have to install the new outlets, switches, and wall plates.

Old kitchen backsplash electrical receptacle in the new ceramic tile backsplash with a one-gang, 1/2", blue ReceptXtender receptacle box extender
Old kitchen backsplash electrical receptacle in the new ceramic tile backsplash with a one-gang, 1/2″, blue ReceptXtender receptacle box extender

By attaching the black, 3/4″ ReceptXtender to the existing outlet electrical box during the rough-in, I was given a very cleanly cut hole in the tile backsplash, by the tile installer.

This method makes it much easier to install the GFCI outlet during the finish phase of construction.  I simply removed the 3/4″ extender and installed one that is the proper depth like the blue one above which is 1/2″ deep and adds 3.3 cubic inches to the overall box fill.

According to the National Electrical Code a certain amount of cubic inches is required for each wire in an electrical box.  See article 314.16 for more information about box fill.

The existing kitchen electrical outlet box inside the new ceramic tile backsplash with a one-gang, 1/2", blue ReceptXtender box extender attached and the original wires hanging out
The existing kitchen electrical outlet box inside the new ceramic tile backsplash with a one-gang, 1/2″, blue ReceptXtender box extender attached and the original wires hanging out.
Finished GFCI electrical receptacle mounted on the kitchen ceramic tile backsplash
The Finished GFCI electrical receptacle mounted on the kitchen ceramic tile backsplash
Some Romex cables passing through a wood wall stud that has a steel protector plate fastened to its surface.
Some Romex Type NM-B cables passing through a wood wall stud that has a steel protector plate fastened to its surface.

When installing wiring where kitchen cabinets are going to be installed it is a good idea to use steel protective nail plates.  Cabinet installers tend to use very long screws to attach their cabinets to the wall.

An old wall switch hanging from the switch box with a black, 3/4" ReceptXtender receptacle box extender attached
An old wall switch hanging from the switch box with a black, 3/4″ ReceptXtender receptacle box extender attached

You can see in the above photo the nice cutting around the electrical box that was done by the tile installer.  If that black extender was not there, the opening to the electrical box would have been cut smaller.

A dimmer switch and a 1/2", blue ReceptXtender receptacle box extender, about to be mounted to the new ceramic tile kitchen countertop backsplash
A dimmer switch and a 1/2″, blue ReceptXtender receptacle box extender, about to be mounted to the new ceramic tile kitchen countertop backsplash
Four different depth ReceptExtender electrical box extenders
Four different depth ReceptExtender electrical box extenders

The four sizes of ReceptXtenders Box Extenders pictured above are 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″, and 3/4″.  Notice the notch on the upper right corner of the 3/4″ receptacle extender.  I had to cut it a little to accommodate a receptacle.

Three Arlington Industries electrical box extenders
Three Arlington Industries electrical box extenders

The above Arlington #BE1 Box Extenders work very well and are approved for use with electrical boxes.  These are inserted into the existing electrical box in the wall after the wall has been finished and is ready for switches, receptacles, and wall plates to be installed.  They can easily be trimmed back if too deep for your application.

New peninsula kitchen counter with hole cut for an electrical receptacle outlet
New peninsula kitchen counter with hole cut for an electrical receptacle outlet

I put ReceptXtenders on all of the existing outlets and switches during rough-in so the person who installs the back splash tile will have to cut around them.

The 3.5 inch deep metal one gang electrical box mounted in the peninsula counter side all ready for an electrical outlet
The 3.5 inch deep metal one gang electrical box mounted in the peninsula counter side all ready for an electrical outlet to be installed.

There was an old BX cable feeding the old peninsula outlet.  I replaced it with MC cable and ran it through the inside of the cabinet to the side mounted outlet box using an MC cable connector after inserting an anti-short bushing inside the cable.

The finished kitchen peninsula electrical outlet on the end of the cabinet
The finished kitchen peninsula electrical outlet on the end of the cabinet

The finished GFCI Claro outlet and wall plate on the peninsula is a designer color from Lutron.

The finished kitchen cabinets with, counter top, backsplash, undercabinet lighting and electrical outlets ready to use
The finished kitchen cabinets with, counter top, backsplash, undercabinet lighting and electrical outlets ready to use
Description, pictures, and part numbers for adjustable electrical boxes made by Carlon
Description, pictures, and part numbers for adjustable electrical boxes made by Carlon.

More work on this kitchen can be seen on this post.

My other kitchen posts are listed here.

My blog post about grounding outlets and switches will be helpful to you.

What type of back splash are you planning for your kitchen counter top?